Samsung refrigerator lights blinking (Model RB197..)

After power outage, fridge temp sensor was blinking.  Initially the top horizontal led (#1) then after about 10 minutes the lower left led (#5).

I do not have a ice maker.

short version

pressed the power freeze/power cool buttons simultaneously for up to 30 seconds and the panel reset

long version

several different button push combo recommendations on line.  i tried then all with no luck, including the one (above) that eventually worked

unplugged the fridge for at least 5 minutes. no luck with button combo

tried samsung chat.  complete waste of time.  obvious the person 'assisting' me had multiple chats going.  took several minutes to respond to each text, repeated questions and generally did not appear to comprehend my problem.  overall wasted 35 minutes as ended with them saying i needed to have a tech visit.

after the chat i found the above diagram that identified the error codes 1 - ice maker sensor and 5 - I/M function error, both related to ice maker.  Since I don't have an ice maker, opened the freezer and made sure the left hand ice drawer was properly set/level.

unplugged the fridge for 10 minutes.

this time the power freeze/power cool simultaneous push combo worked. 

Miata NA (1991) Headlight stuck half way

Engine stalled while headlights were on.  After restarting engine, driver side  headlight  was half way and would not retract if headlights were turned off or internal headlight button pushed.

this video was helpful.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6VomjAgitU

what i did (short version)

- removed the 30 amp fuse from the fuse box in the engine compartment (circled in blue)

- disconnect the connector to the headlight motor (circled in red)

- manually cranked to the closed position

- reconnected connector
- replaced fuse
- started car

Observations

when manually turning the headlight motor to full open position (with fuse in) the resistance varied.  Some sections it was stiff and others required very little effort to turn. Have not tried the passenger side to compare

Update: The headlight got stuck several more times over the next couple of days.  First time I manually cranked open (with fuse in place).  Then next two times rather then repeat the above, I wound up starting to drive in that position and it eventually opened to the full position.  One time after about 5 minutes, another time after 10.  Is now working normally.

long version

turned the manual headlight crank down and got resistance so had power to the motor

[designed to allow you to crank open so expect you should not get resistance in that direction]

removed fuse (fuse box in engine compartment - circled in blue) 

manually raised headlight all the way open

replaced fuse - headlight reverted to partially open position (not exactly same spot)

remove fuse, manually lower headlight all the way

replace fuse - headlight reverted to partially open (not exactly same spot)

remove fuse

disconnect motor connector.  

- manually raise headlight to get better access to connector

- push the tab on the connector inwards

- struggle to disconnect

reconnect connector

manually lower headlight

replace fuse - no headlight motion (different than before when it would raise partially up)

start car

turn on headlights - both fully up

turn off headlights - both fully down

Miata NA (1991) Hood release cable replacement

Very straightforward

great video here titled Miata MX5 Hood Release Cable Replacement - MIATA STREET

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVvwL_CCvdM


bought a new cable from the dealer for $40.  Think I could have bought on line for $20

Fortunately my cable failed with the hood open.  I had been having trouble pushing the handle back in for some time before it finally would not go all the way back in so the hood would not close all the way.  Crappy design as the actual cable was fine.

advice

I attached some string to the end of the cable before pulling it through the firewall.  This made it simple to pull the new cable back through.

Porsche Cayman 2008 Windshield Wiper Leak

access.  great article here on how to remove the reservoir.  https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48981-windshield-washer-tank-diy/ 

turns out i could replace the pump and grommet with the reservoir in place. although it would not have been obvious until after i did it.

troubleshooting.  the leak was coming from the area where the pump nozzle fit into the grommet at the bottom of the reservoir.  as the water level had to be about an inch higher than the grommet before it started leaking it was not clear exactly where it was leaking.  The fit between the grommet and pump nozzle or the pump housing.  the price of the grommet with shipping was around $12 and pelican parts sold the pump and grommet for $18 so I decided to replace both

helpful hints. 

I removed the entire cowling in the wheel well to provide better access. 

There are 4 screws (T-25 torx) and 3  plastic nuts (10mm).  The 4th screw is underneath the car, just inside the lift lift spot.  It is not shown in the write up

The plastic tab on the fill tube failed (just underneath the finger) when trying to bend it back making it difficult to remove as had no leverage to lift up the tab.

you can remove the pump from the reservoir by simply pulling up on the pump.  it is located behind the green circle