Nikon Super coolscan 4000 ed on windows 10

sources
http://blog.controlspace.org/2010/05/nikon-scan-on-windows-7-and-vista-64.html
https://axelriet.blogspot.com/2009/10/nikon-ls-40-ls-50-ls-5000-scanners-on.html
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/na/NSG_article?articleNo=000026780&configured=1&lang=en_SG

desktop running windows 10 with firewire (1394) connection


basic steps to load nikon scan software

with scanner OFF

- download and install nikon software 4.0.3 (ns403en_vista.exe - see 3rd source above or google nikon 4.0.3)
- modify .inf file.; in my case i edited the Nks1394.INF file located in c:/program files(x86)/common files/nikon/driver/scan1394 directory.  (text i used located)

turn scanner ON

- reboot windows allowing it to use unsigned drivers (write this down) settings/update and security/recovery/under advanced start up/restart now/ then press f7 during windows startup
- update driver. scanner should be visible in device manager under imaging devices as
 Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 4000 ED.  choose browse my computer and navigate to the updated inf file

- software should now recognize scanner and work



[note - need to replace & with & in below]

; Nks1394.INF  -- Windows Still Image Setup File of
;                 Nikon 1394 Scanners for Windows ME/2000/XP
; Copyright (C) Nikon Corporation 2003
; Manufacturer: Nikon Corporation
; scanners.inf - Windows Still Image Setup File
; modified inf file


[Version]
Signature="$CHICAGO$"
Class=Image
ClassGUID={6bdd1fc6-810f-11d0-bec7-08002be2092f}
Provider=%Provider%
DriverVer=1/1/2009,1.0
[Manufacturer]
%Mfg%=Models,ntamd64
[Models]
; USB scanners
"Nikon LS-40" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4000
"Nikon LS-50" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4001
"Nikon LS-5000" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4002
; Firewire scanners
"Firewire Scanner" = SBP2Scanner,SBP2\GenScanner
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 4000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-4000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 8000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-8000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 9000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-9000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
;---------------- Duplicated from [Models]
[Models.ntamd64]
; USB scanners
"Nikon LS-40" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4000
"Nikon LS-50" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4001
"Nikon LS-5000" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_04b0&Pid_4002
; Firewire scanners
"Firewire Scanner" = SBP2Scanner,SBP2\GenScanner
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 4000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-4000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 8000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-8000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
"Nikon SUPER COOLSCAN 9000 ED" = SBP2Scanner_NIKON,SBP2\NIKON___&LS-9000_ED______&CMDSETID104D8
;---------------- USBScanner -------------------------
[USBScanner]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.USBSection
SubClass=StillImage
DeviceType=1
DeviceSubType=1
Capabilities=0
[USBScanner.Services]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.USBSection.Services
;---------------- SBP2Scanner ------------------------
[SBP2Scanner]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.SBP2Section
SubClass=StillImage
DeviceType=1
DeviceSubType=2
Capabilities=0
[SBP2Scanner_NIKON]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.SBP2Section
SubClass=StillImage
DeviceType=1
DeviceSubType=2
Capabilities=0
AddReg=NK1394SCN.AddReg
CopyFiles=NK1394SCN.CopyUSDFiles
[SBP2Scanner.Services]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.SBP2Section.Services
[SBP2Scanner_NIKON.Services]
Include=sti.inf
Needs=STI.SBP2Section.Services
[NK1394SCN.AddReg]
HKR,,HardwareConfig,1,2
HKR,,DevLoader,,*NTKERN
HKR,,NTMPDriver,,"scsiscan.sys"
HKR,DeviceData,ICMProfile,1,0,0
HKR,,USDClass,,"{07C71AC0-FA90-11d3-B409-00C04F87578E}"
HKCR,CLSID\{07C71AC0-FA90-11d3-B409-00C04F87578E},,,"Nikon STI USD"
HKCR,CLSID\{07C71AC0-FA90-11d3-B409-00C04F87578E}\InProcServer32,,,%11%\NKSCNUSD.DLL
HKCR,CLSID\{07C71AC0-FA90-11d3-B409-00C04F87578E}\InProcServer32,ThreadingModel,,"Both"
[SourceDisksNames]
1=%DiskName%,,
[SourceDisksFiles]
NKSCNUSD.dll=1
[DestinationDirs]
NK1394SCN.CopyUSDFiles=11
[NK1394SCN.CopyUSDFiles]
NKSCNUSD.dll,,,32
;-----------------------------------------------------
[Strings]
Provider="steelchn@gmail.com"
Mfg="DIY Software"
DiskName="Nikon Scan 4 CD-ROM"
;========================= End of scanners.inf ===============================

google voice raspberry pi [pygooglevoice]

using pip install pygooglevoice i got an error something like

galx = re.search(r"name=\"GALX\"\s+value=\"(.+)\"", content).group(1)AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'group'


it worked when i download pygooglevoice-master fromhttps://github.com/pettazz/pygooglevoice


copy files into lib/site-packages from pygooglevoice folder
sudo python setup.py install

Gopro Hero 5 tips & tricks

Copy files from Gopro to windows 10 PC retaining file creation date - use sd card reader vice copying from hero connected via usb.  richcopy utility seems faster than drag/drop from windows 10

in case it gets lost - create a jpg file with your return info and save in root directory  on sd card as readme.jpg.  a long shot but at least info is there if someone tries to look for the owner.

Miata NA Horn Button Repair

My left horn button was working so this narrowed it down to the right horn button or wiring.  i did not have to remove the steering wheel or mess with the airbag


Step 1 - pry out the button.  I used a plastic trim remover tool.  as others have stated, patience and persistence.  working around the edges it slowly starts to come out.  used a fair amount of force pushing up/down against the bottom/top of plastic button then towards me.




This is the tab (one on the top one on the bottom) that holds the button into place.
i was getting 12v across the wires so power was good. after removal, i was getting resistance across the wires when the button was depressed so that confirmed it was the button

i tried the spraying electrical cleaner advice - multiple times over several days and button presses (100) with no joy.


Step 2 - from the back side push the tabs in and up.  i only needed to do three so did not have to deal with the one under the connectors. you can do this sequentially.






Step 3 - used sandpaper to clean the copper connectors on each side.









Step 4 - confirm resistance goes to zero when pressed.  you can remove the circular connector on the back side of the button which allows you to press it against the other side without having to snap it back together before confirming good connectivity

Step 5 - re install the button, enjoy a sense of accomplishment and try to forget about your $10 ebay purchase of new (to me) buttons w/ wiring.  it was knowing i had a new button coming that allowed me to try and separate the existing button.  while hinted at in one post, was not obvious to me.

Raspberry Pi projects

Hardware: Raspberry Pi 3, webcam, ip camera
Software: NOOBS 2.4.3 Raspian (Jessie stretch)

Note: Use a power supply vice a iphone or other "charger".   the led should be solid RED indicating good power vice blinking.

Current Projects

- record motion triggered surveillance video to NAS from webcam & ip camera using motion/motioneye.

- text me my estimated morning/evening commute time using google maps api

- email me the weather forecast if there is a chance of rain

- plot surf tracks on google earth using garmin vivoactive hr lat/lon data

Past projects

- monitor cable modem data to troubleshoot connectivity issues

Miata NA rear finish panel replacement

went with fiberglass replacement from goodwin as it was local.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/30-1132RFBF.html?gclid=CKHjruDj_dQCFUtNfgodPkME9w

couple of videos i found useful (sort of)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76TDdLHXebA&t=633s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cxi3YmecRA
https://www.miata.net/hakuna/shavebadge.html

Original panel was cracked (joys of street street parking) so was not worried about being careful during removal.  Only part to watch out for is after removing all the nuts, and fasteners, lift up as there is a slot in the top center of the license plate area (green circle).




Couple of items not mentioned in various reference materials

I was having a hard time removing the white electrical connector (left). Figured out you do not need to, simply remove the turn signal light (grey) .







The original rear finish panel has a metal stiffener plate on the back side.  It is held on by four  pinch washers that attach to short posts (red circles) and one  rivet (blue circle).  I removed from the old panel and installed on the new one.

The green circle shows the back side of the slot that requires you to lift up for removal and push down (gently) for installation.



1/8 in diameter rivet.  had to drill the old one out.

miata badge - used fishing line to cut through two sided tape (patience) 

mazda badge - two posts are held in place by caulk/glue.  from the back, used a drill bit to work the posts free.  on the new panel, drilled 1/8 inch holes to secure the posts on the badge.

Used Dupli-Color BGM0398 Bright Red General Motors Exact-Match 

1st time using "rattle can".  Did not prep the panel and was very happy with the result.  take your time and use an enclosed space  (i..e garage) to avoid small particles floating in the wind.

Did not have the same luck with the clear coat.  Maybe just a bad can but did not spray on evenly. 

The panel is slightly off center on the horizontal axis. About 1/4 inch.  read others had the same issue.  probably could have drilled out the center slot (green circle above) to provide some adjustment. Only noticeable up close in two places if you are looking for it.  Gap below the driver side tail light and the key hole is slightly off center.  



overall very happy with the result.  now I do need to get after repainting the bumper.....

Surf Tracker Garmin Vivoactive HR [update]

update 9/19/18

basically finished modifying python scripts to batch download .fit files from the garmin IQ web site,  extract the raw data, and convert to kml files to view on google earth.

just recently back to comparing extracted .fit data with gopro video files in order to tweak algorithm.  a bit tedious as have over 700 waves.  hope to update results in the next few weeks.

my focus is on speed and distance profiles vice minimums.


+ + + + + + +

some observations comparing the wave file generated by the app and what I get when processing the raw data (extracted from the tcx file).  I only recently installed surf tracker 2 so will update once I get some rides in.

In applying the wave logic used by the app (e.g. minimum speed [9 kph], minimum ride time [6 seconds], at least speed [13 kph]) to the raw data there was

high correlation in # of waves (80 out of 82) and max speed of wave (72/82 exact match, 77/82 within .1 kph (rounding?)).
medium correlation for ride time. Same for 55 of 82 and 63 of 82 within 2 seconds
medium correlation for wave distance when ride time matched.  -23% to +13% when time matched (52 waves)

Since, with exception of # of waves caught and max speed of those waves, there are significant discrepancies in the ride time and distance when post processing raw data i conclude they must be due to applying the algorithm in real time vice after the fact.

However, I did capture a significant number of waves on a gopro so was able to review the video in an attempt to validate the wave ride time.  For the largest discrepancies (difference of more than 4 seconds) the raw data had zero's in the speed, lat and long for the difference in time.  For example, raw data had valid data for ride time of 18 seconds, then zero's for an additional 15 seconds (most of which the watch was under water).  The app recorded the ride time as 33 seconds so it may be the app logic continues to give credit for ride time until a valid (i.e. non zero) speed is below the minimum.

At the moment I do not have a hypothesis about the discrepancies in wave distance.  The majority are shorter on the app than post processing (10 longer , 45 shorter when waver ride time was same)

I have updated my python code to capture the time zone and street location of each wave.  time zone was necessary to correct to local time as tcx time data is gmt.